Macro photography
True macro photography starts from 1 : 1 and larger ratios. In
order to achieve it we use macro filters, extension tubes, reverse
mount lenses, bellows or macro lenses which give such ratios. We
can also use a combination of the above mentioned equipment;
- macro filters give relatively poor results in terms of quality but
are a cheap alternative. You use them by screwing to the end
of the lens just like you would do with a UV filter. Macro filters reduce light and may cause image distortion.
- reverse lens mounting works similarly to macro filters. In this
case we use the reversed lense like cluster of macro filters.
Choosing this method will greatly reduce the light available, but with practice and skill can give astonishing results.
- extension tubes are also relatively inexpensive and at the same
time very user friendly. They physically increase the distance
between the lens and the sensor or film plane. In addition you can combine a few tubes together.
- a bellows unit works in the same way as extension tubes but you can
regulate the distance flawlessly. The unit can increase the
distance between the camera and the lens by up to 30cm. Working with bellows requires great skill and you usually need an
extra light source.
- there are 3 basic lengths of macro lenses: 60mm, 100mm and
180mm. Each of them gives a ration of 1 : 1 but they differ by the
working distance. Longer lenses allow greater distance from the
photographed object. This is especially helpful when working
with shy species or once that are potentially dangerous (may bite).
However, the longer the lens, the more difficult it is in use.
Longer lenses will not forgive minor mistakes nor movement.
Minimal depth of field is typical to macro photography. With such a
feature
light is an absolutely crucial factor. The best results are achieved
with ambient light, which is not always easy because of clouds or
shadows. You may want to think of alternative light sources. A simple
alternative is light reflected from aluminium foil or an equivalent. This is
not always comfortable and sometimes not possible (not enough light,
strong wind, not enough arm span). In such cases the only way is using
a flash unit.
When shooting macro, mounting your flash traditionally (above the prism)
may not be the best idea, because the lens itself throw shade on the
photographed object. It will be helpful to move the flash away from the
camera (by using a cable), or by using a flash extender, like the one designed
and described by Arkadiusz Stopa (www.stopa.cso.pl/technika/intex.html).
A very comfortable and good solution is a flash unit mounted on the lens.
It can be either a ring light or a dual flash unit. Such options
bring excellent
results and allow full control over the light. A
very practical solution of using external flash unit just as a fill in.
In such cases the we
use the ambient light as a
primary light
source and
set the flash
just in
"gentle"
mode, just enough to get the details out. Thanks to that we
don't loose the
natural background, which tends to be black when
using strong light
and short exposure.
We can not forget about the
tripod which can come in very handy.
It's best when each leg can
be regulated separately, which will allow
us to set up the tripod stably in
any terrain. It's very comfortable if
your tripod has a removable stem
that allows it to be placed
horizonally or upside down.
Thanks to that we can take pictures at
ground level.
Last but not least is practice
which is the most important in any type
of photography.